Cheeses have been enjoyed with wine and beer since time immemorial and if fine cheeses have been consumed with other higher-spirited beverages, then why not sakés? Recently we’ve had the pleasure of drinking some exquisite sakés, not only in Japanese restaurants, because increasingly they are available at restaurants with western cuisine. Often sakés are so delightful that we’ve relished the opportunity to sip them on their own. This is probably the most honest way to taste saké – on its own – without any food. However, as with other beverages, one of the most illuminating ways to taste a fine saké is in the company of fine cheeses.

Though aromatic white wine is the beverage with which saké is most frequently compared, the method of their production, though related, is quite dissimilar. In considering cheese partners for our sakés, taste comparisons to fine white wines would lead us to seek out cheeses that work best with such wines. Fortunately, there is a wide range of cheeses from which to draw. Being reminded of an elegant white wine when tasting a good saké, we would begin with the cheeses that best match those profiles. Several years ago, a cheese that now has become fairly wellknown - the Garrotxa from Catalunya - highlighted the beautiful pairing possibilities between cheeses and wines that are not produced in the same regions. Previously, there seemed to exist an unwritten rule that only cheeses and wines that are produced within the same region can be compatible. On that occasion, the Garrotxa was paired with a white Burgundy, one that previously had not found a cheese soul-mate nearly so amiable. Thus, the notion that terroir is the most reliable indicator of a good match became less important.

However, the idea remains valid: that one can look to the influence of soil, water and climate, as well as the personality of a region, to find synergies between foods and beverages. One can even throw a dart at a map, and determine the cheese and beverage produced closest to where the dart lands, to find a compatible pair. However, this geographic approach is often not the best indicator. There is much more that goes into the production process that can influence the final products themselves, to the point that the raw materials only provide the first indication of possible synergies. The character of the cheeses and how they interact with other foods and beverages is highly influenced by the artisanal quality of traditional cheeses. The same holds true for the beverages.

Interestingly, there are several critical steps in the making of saké that closely resemble the steps in producing cheese. One must first select the finest raw ingredients available. In cheeses it all starts with the milk, while in saké it all starts with the rice. In the making of saké, the outer layer of the rice is milled away, and with it a considerable amount of protein, lipids and vitamins. (Generally, the greater percentage of husk polished away, the better the saké.) In cheese production, the draining of the whey toward the start of the cheese making process causes much of the same type of losses: some proteins, some vitamins and minerals, and happily, most of the lactose sugar. Granted, in cheesemaking a great portion of the whey is water, and in most cases it goes to some other use. In saké making, very little of the outer shell of the rice by-product goes to waste either. Yet, the remaining center part of the rice is the essence of the finest sakés, just as the small percentage of solids in the milk is the essence of the cheese.

As with fine cheeses, good sakés require some aging, though not nearly as much as most wines. One advantage fine sakés may have over most wines is a certain depth of flavor, even without the extra aging. This depth of flavor may enable sakés to balance well with some of the stronger flavors of certain artisanal cheeses. It is the quest of the saké brewmaster to bring all these essences into a harmonious balance, just as the cheese maker should be seeking that kind of balance of flavors in the cheese.

As with any food or beverage, there is the optimal temperature to consider. We know full well that cheese tastes best no colder than room temperature. Good quality saké will taste delicious served at any temperature, from chilled to warm. Other synergies between cheese and sakés include the balance between the savory qualities of cheeses and the fruity characteristics of the beverage, the balance of salt and sweet, and their relative acidities. Another especially significant relationship between cheeses and sakés is that the bigger flavored cheeses usually taste best with the more persistently flavored sakés. The aromas in fine sakés are fairly subtle and have aromatic profiles that come into play successfully in cheese/ beverage pairings.

One thing we recognize in the cheeses of Spain is their unique and distinctive flavor profiles; that is part of what makes the cheeses of Spain distinct as a group and different from cheeses produced in other countries. The cheeses of Spain have soul. Most of them have a relatively subtle aroma (not stinky!)

Keeping in mind that cheese tends to make one thirsty, we try to focus on the secondary affinities that cheeses have with their beverage partners beyond hunger and thirst. This is where the fine cheeses of Spain hold forth.

Because goat milk cheeses are generally more compatible with white wines, we first thought of cheeses like Ibores, Majorero, Aracena, Grazalema, Garrotxa, and even Monte Enebro for our saké pairing. Not surprisingly, these cheeses all were delicious with a full range of saké types, from the lighest and driest of sakés to the fuller-flavored, fruitier, and even creamier types. Since we don’t want to overwhelm the sakés with their cheese partners, we were cautious about pairing them with the most strongly flavored cheeses. Yet, we found many stronger-flavored cheeses that paired well, especially harder cheeses like Roncal.

We are concerned about the survival of fine sakés, just as we have been concerned about the survival of the artisan cheeses of Spain and other countries. The discontinuation of the making of unique sakés or the alteration of methods of making the distinct Spanish cheeses by switching dairy breeds for the sake of increasing production to simply offer greater yields would be unfortunate. We hope there will be a long and full appreciation for these well crafted cheeses and sakés. We have long appreciated the affinities of the fine cheeses of Spain with many wines, beers, and other spirits.

The production of shochu is less complicated than saké production. Shochu can be produced from other ingredients besides rice, including barley and sweet potatoes. We thought that shochus, because of their relative simplicity, might be able to stand up more successfully with stronger cheeses.

One thing that allows both saké and shochu to be more compatible with food than many red wines is their relative lack of astringency. Another plus for saké is the absence of sulfites, which are found in most wines.

Be careful while drinking saké with cheese. Keep in mind that cheese makes you thirsty and sakés have an elevated alcohol content compared to almost all table wines. Luxury sakés are meant for contemplation and enjoyment, not intended to be gulped. However, it can be a lot of fun to try them with the fine cheeses of Spain.

Max McCalman is the author of The Cheese Plate and Cheese, a Connoisseur’s Guide to the World’s Best (Clarkson Potter, publisher). Max is the Maître Fromager and Dean of Curriculum at the Artisanal Cheese Center, www.artisanalcheese.com.