spring 2008

A Taste of Spain in the Land of Don Quijote, by Sarah Andrews

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Most people know Castille and La Mancha as the literary home of Don Quijote, a land of vast plains, crimson sunsets and looming windmills posing as giants. But this pristinely rural region less than an hour’s drive outside Madrid also hides a wonderland of gourmet temptations. It's the birthplace of Spain's iconic Manchego cheese, the source of deeply aromatic saffron, and the home of exquisite cured hams, olive oils, fruit and sweets. Without a doubt, Castille-La Mancha is one of Spain's great undiscovered gourmet regions.

The food-lover's route begins in Toledo, the millennias-old regional capital. For centuries a bastion of Arabic, Jewish and Christian learning, Toledo today is an outdoor museum packed with churches, monasteries and monuments. With dozens of restaurants and busy tapas bars lining its ancient cobblestone streets, this is also an excellent place to sample the local specialties, and it's within easy reach of the sources of Castille-La Mancha's traditional cuisine.

Sweet Stuff: Marzipan and Turrón
If you're going to explore the cuisine of Toledo and the rest of Castille-La Mancha, you might as well begin with dessert. In these parts, that's practically synonymous with marzipan, the deceptively simple, sweet almond paste that has been a Mediterranean specialty for centuries. First inspired by Arabian cuisine, it's now savored throughout Spain, especially during the Christmas season.

In the center of Toledo is the marzipanlovers' mecca – the shop and factory of Santo Tomé. Since 1856 this family firm has used the age-old mixture of almonds, sugar, honey and eggs to make traditional-style marzipan cookies and desserts, becoming the region's marzipan producer par excellence. From the shop window beckons an exquisitely rendered replica of Toledo's cathedral made entirely with marzipan. Inside, the creations aren't quite so spectacular, but bite-size cookies, long marzipan bars stuffed with coconut or sweetened egg yolk, and swirling rolls of elaborately decorated marzipan all tempt.

Castille-La Mancha also has a sweet spot for turrón, another Christmastime almond sweet with a long regional tradition. Although these days bars of turrón can be made with anything from chocolate to peanut butter, traditional turrón is a carefully measured mix of Marcona almonds, sugar and honey. Whether "hard" (a jaw-breaking bar made with whole almonds, like a brittle) or "soft" (a delicious paste that tastes something like an almond halva) turrón is as much a part of Christmas as gift-giving and toasting with cava.

Just south of Toledo, in the town of Sonseca, is one of Spain's most revered turrón producers, Delaviuda, www.delaviuda.com . Here the old-fashioned recipe of almonds, sugar and honey are blended in macro quantities to produce thousands of pounds of turrón each year, which are sold throughout Spain, the US and beyond.

Saffron: The world’s most precious spice
From Sonseca, the gourmet tour continues southeast toward the village of Madridejos, the center of Spain's saffron production. Although saffron traces its origins to Persia and is now widely produced in countries like China and Iran, the very best saffron is gathered from the sun-scorched fields here in central Spain, where the delicate crocus flower blooms in October and November. Only here is saffron recognized with the prestigious denomination of origin Saffron of La Mancha.

Obtaining this pungent spice, considered the world's most precious, is labor-intensive work undertaken for generations by the families of the region. In autumn, when the fields surrounding the town bloom with the pale-purple crocus flower, workers toil from sunup until sundown, picking the flowers by hand on the day they bloom so that none withers. The crocus' blood-red, threadlike stigmas are plucked immediately for drying, which is often done in simple baskets over electric heaters in the family kitchen. It takes some 250,000 crocus blooms to make 2.2 pounds of saffron, so the saffron harvest and preparation is a group affair, with friends or several generations of a family pitching in. It's no surprise then that a single gram (0.035 oz.) of the spice can cost some $30.

Saffron has a revered place in Manchegan cuisine. Its sweetly pungent aroma infuses everything from rice dishes to lamb stews, roast suckling pig, soups, sauces and even ice cream, making it an extremely versatile spice. No chef here uses it better than Manuel Seller, who for decades has been the heart and soul of local landmark restaurant Un Alto en El Camino restaurant in Madridejos. At this home-style roadside eatery he adds saffron – sometimes only a few strands – to trademark dishes like roasted cod or venison.

To maximize saffron's flavor, Seller says, grind the dried threads with a mortar and pestle, then heat them slightly on a pot lid or piece of tin foil before stirring them into a stew or sauce no more than 15 minutes before the dish is finished cooking.

Cheese, please: making Manchego
Perhaps the region's best-known specialty is queso manchego, or Manchego cheese. Made exclusively with milk from ancestral Manchega sheep fed on a diet of tough and hardy plants, this savory aged cheese is unique to the region, and its production is carefully controlled by a local regulating council. An excellent way to learn more about Spain's favorite cheese is to head to the Montealegre estate, 70km north of Madridejos in a lush, forest-blanketed valley. Here, the estate's owner, Chata del Aguila, teaches groups how to prepare food the old-fashioned way in her 200- year-old farmhouse kitchen.

Students prepare a typical meal – roasted Manchegan lamb, fried bread crumbs called "migas", and sautéed potatoes – using the old kitchen’s woodburning stove and the open flames of the fire pit. But the highlight of the day-long class is cheese making, when students see how Manchego cheese was made in decades past.

The process begins by heating raw ewe's milk over open flames in copper vats. Once heated, rennet is added and the milk slowly separates into curds and whey. And now for the fun part: the novice cheese makers plunge their arms into the warm milk bath to crumble the firm layer of curd that forms at the top of the vat. Although seeming like an indulgent beauty routine, it's a necessary part of the cheese-making process. Next, the curds are pushed to the bottom of the vat, and the whey is skimmed off the top. Finally, the students pack dripping handfuls of packed curds into straw cheese molds, which are tightened and topped with a stone while the cheese begins to harden. The next day, they'll be soaked in a salted brine before being set out for two months or more of aging.

These days, most Manchego cheese is made in modern factories like that of Lordi, www.lordisa.com, a family-run company in the town of Los Yébenes that makes thousands of pounds of cheese each year. The process is industrialized and streamlined, but the basic steps remain the same: separating curds and whey, packing the cheese tightly into molds, soaking it in a flavorful brine, and letting it age until ripe.

"Mountain" Ham: Spain's iconic Jamón Serrano and Jamón Ibérico
Whether eaten in thin slivers atop a piece of crusty bread, in coarsely chopped chunks sprinkled over soup, in long pieces draped over a slice of sweet melon, or in crumpled slices accompanied by red wine, the delicious salt-cured jamón serrano (literally, "mountain ham") and jamón Ibérico (Iberian ham) are ubiquitous in Castille-La Mancha. Varying qualities of cured hams are made throughout Spain, but Castille-La Mancha has a proud tradition of raising Ibérico pigs, whose flavorful meat is considered the very best for making ham. These Ibérico hams are among the highest-quality hams available in Spain. Slightly less tender and with a stronger taste are Serrano hams, made with white pigs. While these hams aren't as highly valued, they are ideal for sandwiches or informal tapas.

There's no better place to get a closeup view of the long process necessary to make excellent cured hams than in Tello (Industrias Cárnicas Tello, S.A.), www.tello.es, a large company based in the town of Totanés, due west of the Montealegre estate. Although production here is measured in millions of kilos, the methods have changed very little over the past centuries. Whole pigs are brought in and carefully butchered, and the haunches are set aside to make the prized hams. Once the haunches are cleaned and the fat is trimmed from them, they're packed in salt for several weeks to wick out moisture. Next, they're coated with a mixture of salt, pepper and fat and are hung to dry for up to 18 months in refrigerated rooms whose slowly changing temperatures mimic the seasonal changes and the open air, which they would have been exposed to in an old-fashioned drying room open to the mountain breeze. The results, as anyone who has tasted a morsel of explosively flavorful jamón Ibérico can attest, are spectacular.

Nature's Bounty: Fruits and Vegetables, Honeys and Olive oils
At first glance, the broad, arid plains of Castille-La Mancha may not seem like the ideal place for cultivating fruits and vegetables. But with appellationprotected melons, eggplant, garlic and olive oils, the region proves that it offers more than first meets the eye.

From Totanés, you could return to Madridejos to immerse yourself in the world of olive-oil-making at García de la Cruz, www.garciadelacruz.com. Here in the heart of the PDO (protected denomination of origin) Montes de Toledo, groves of gnarled olive trees stud the landscape, creating a peaceful, eerie beauty. At García de la Cruz and other nearby factories, the native Cornicabra olive is cold-pressed to make a highly flavorful and very stable extra virgin olive oil, which is often used as the basis for traditional dishes.

Olives aren't the only crop that thrives in the region. Southeast of Toledo, in and around the town of Las Pedroñeras, the potent purple garlic fills fields with its spicy aroma and intense color. In Ciudad Real, also to the south, the favored crop is the sweet "frog skin" melon, whose unique flavor, coloring and aromas have made it a favorite fruit throughout Spain. Ciudad Real is also the home of the Almagro eggplant, a tiny native eggplant that is often pickled and is a favorite Manchegan appetizer.

Honey from La Alcarria, a county in northeastern Castille-La Mancha, also boasts appellation status and is widely appreciated for its robust flavor. This corner of Spain, where hardy wildflowers grow in abundance and Mediterranean herbs and shrubs abound, gives bees Castille-La Mancha Producers, Restaurants & Organizations a unique climate in which to create delicious rosemary, lavender and floral honeys.

With its excellent raw materials, native produce and old-fashioned recipes, Castille-La Mancha is a natural destination for food lovers. Whether indulging in your sweet tooth with a taste of marzipan, savoring the typically Spanish flavors of Manchegan cheese and jamón Serrano, or enjoying the fragrance of a saffronflavored lamb dish, there is no end to the culinary pleasures that await in the land of Don Quijote.

Travel writer Sarah Andrews hails from North Carolina, but she's been living in and writing about Spain since 2000. When not sampling the gastronomic offerings of her adopted country, you can find her in Barcelona, penning feature articles and guidebooks. She can be reached at www.sarahandrews.com.

Castille-La Mancha Producers, Restaurants & Organizations

PRODUCERS
Aceites García de la Cruz
(olive oil)
www.garciadelacruz.com

Delaviuda
(turrón, marzipan, chocolates)
www.delaviuda.com

Lordi, S.A.
(Manchego cheese)
www.lordisa.com

La Merendera, S.C.L.
(artisanal goat cheese)
lamerenderascl@terra.es

La Tejea
(artisanal jam & sauces)
www.latejea.com

La Cuna
(artisanal jam & sauces)
www.lacuna.com.es

Aceitunas Barruz
(table olives, canned fish & vegetables)
www.barruz.com

Caza Selección, S.L.
(cheese & fruit snacks)
www.tapaletas.com

Santo Tomé
(marzipans)
www.mazapan.com

Industrias Cárnicas Tello, S.A.
(Ibérico & Serrano ham, cured meats)
www.tello.es

RESTAURANTS
Un Alto en el Camino,
Chef Manuel Seller Grover
T.: +34 925 460 000

El Casón de Los López
www.casontoledo.com

El Cigarral de las Mercedes
www.cigarraldelasmercedes.com

Finca Montealegre
(cooking & cheese making workshop)
www.montedeaguila.com

El Botero
T. +34 925 229 088

Finca El Retamar,
Bodega Peces-Barba
www.peces-barba.com

Casa Aurelio
www.casa-aurelio.com

REGULATORY COUNCILS
Castilla-la Mancha
PDOS & PGIS
www.jccm.es/agricul/paginas/comercial-industrial/consejosreguladores/consejos.htm

Saffron from La Mancha PDO
www.doazafrandelamancha.com

Montes de Toledo olive oil PDO
www.domontesdetoledo.com

Campo de Montiel olive oil PDO
www.doaceitecampodemontiel.es

Aceite Campo de Calatrava PDO
(olive oil)
www.campodecalatrava.com/
Aceite_de_Oliva.109.0.html


Queso Manchego PDO
(Manchego cheese)
www.quesomanchego.es

Serrano Ham Foundation PGI
www.viarural.com.es/alimentos/jamon-
serrano/castilla-lamancha/default.htm


Melón de La Mancha PDO
(melon)
www.igpmelonmancha.com

Ajo Morado de las Pedroñeras PGI
(purple garlic)
www.jccm.es/agricul/paginas/comercial-industrial/consejosreguladores/ajo.htm

Cordero Manchego PGI
(Manchegan lamb)
www.corderomanchego.org

Asociacion Berenjena de Almagro
(Almagro's Eggplant PGI)
www.berenjenas.castillalamancha.es

Miel de la Alcarria PDO
(honey)
www.mieldelaalcarria.org

Mazapán de Toledo PGI
(marzipan)
T: +34 925 228 710

ORGANIZATIONS
Toledo's Chamber of Commerce
www.camaratoledo.com

Castilla-La Mancha
Agricultural Ministry
www.jccm.es/agricul

IPEX (Castilla-La Mancha
Institute for Foreign Trade)
www.ipex.jccm.es

ICEX Toledo (Spanish Institute
for Foreign Trade)
toledo@mcx.es

Toledo's Tourist Office
www.toledoweb.org

Consuegra's Tourist Office
www.consuegra.es