Spain can claim to produce some of the most interesting cheeses available. When you mention that you have a certain queso from Spain the cheese lover’s eyes light up and the mouths begin to water. One thing that makes these cheeses so intriguing is that many of them have ancient origins and the methods of their making have changed very little over the ages. It is important to support those ancient traditions of cheesemaking. It doesn’t hurt that these cheeses are unique, inimitable, and that they offer some of the most pleasurable taste experiences available in the world of gastronomy.

One of the best-loved cheeses made anywhere, as well as the one with the largest production in Spain, is the Manchego. Manchego is a marvelous cheese. One of the great things about Manchego is that when other cheeses may fail, the Manchego can survive substandard storage and handling conditions pretty well. They hold up well and they make great snacking cheeses for any time of the day. But there are many other great snacking cheeses from Spain, and that is precisely what the Spanish cheeses can do best - be enjoyed on their own without incorporating them into recipes. We have to credit the venerable Manchego for helping to pave the way for acquiring other lesser known Spanish cheeses, many of which also tolerate so-so storage conditions quite well. By now many of us have had the opportunity to taste the delightful Garrotxa from Cataluña. Also known as “pell florida” because of the lovely gray/blue mold that forms on the rind, Garrotxa was a traditional cheese that survived virtual extinction. The rind that is formed by the action of penicilium Glaucum, though velvety and attractive to the eye, is not very tasty itself. Yet that rind gives the paste of the cheese its unique texture and flavor.

Today Garrotxa has enjoyed a resurgence of popularity as it has been made available to a wider market appreciating its smooth texture and its gentle tang. The firm moist texture and balanced creamy flavor gives the Garrotxa versatility in pairing with many wine types: especially whites, rosés, and younger, gentler reds. Thin slices of Garrotxa make for an easy appetizer for which no bread or cracker is required. Often served alongside salads, Garrotxa also pairs exceptionally well with coffee at the start of the day.

The queso Ibores is a D.O.P. goat milk cheese from Extremadura in western Spain. Ibores is produced primarily from the unpasteurized milk of the Serrana breed of goat but also partly from the Verata and Retinta breeds and their crosses. These last two breeds have a much smaller head count and are in danger of becoming extinct, particularly the Retinta, with less than a thousand head remaining in the region. These are indigenous breeds of the region and the milk quality has a unique rusticity that helps define the flavor profile of this cheese. Fortunately the Ibores production has been exceptional for the past several years and hopefully there will be strong efforts to insure that those races of beautiful goats with their special milks survive. Ibores can be rubbed with olive oil or with smoked paprika. Being a goat milk cheese the paste is very white and the constrast of the reddish rind afforded by the paprika-rubbed version of this cheese makes an especially attractive cheese on a cheese board. Great for snacking on its own, Ibores can elevate many wine partners, as well as enjoyed with dried fruits, almonds, pistachios and membrillo.

Another great cheese from the Extremadura region is queso de La Serena, made with the unpasteurized milk of the Merino breed of sheep. La Serena also enjoys a D.O.P. status in Spain. Similar to the fabulous Torta del Casar but a little easier to acquire because of its somewhat higher level of production, both these cheeses are coagulated with vegetable rennet derived from the cardoon thistle.

La Serena has been produced for local consumption for many centuries with most of the Merino farming destined for wool and meat export. With a relative The Garrotxa, Ibores, Serena, Beyos & Peral Max McCalman’s unique cheese board makes easy entertaining appetizers Starting in the upper right corner, moving clockwise: the semi-blue Peral, Garrotxa, Beyos, and Ibores on the top left. © Jeff Koehler. 13 drop in demand for the wool, the cheese production has gained prominence as an agricultural commodity. The Merino sheep does not give much milk to begin with, but the thick rich milk is of a superior quality when it is used for the production of this cheese. The paste is soft and buttery, slightly acidic, and distinctive.

La Serena pairs well with high pectin and somewhat acid fruits like apples, apricots, pairs, plums and figs. When the top of the wheel is cut away the soft unctuous cheese can make for a thrilling party food accompanied with fresh or lightly toasted bread or crackers. Your guests may be reminded of a fondue, but there will be no fuss, no flame, and no crock to clean afterwards. La Serena pairs well with many sparkling wines, crisp white table wines, with most medium-bodied red wines that are not too astringent, and also with beer.

One of the more unusual cheeses of Spain is Los Beyos, also known as Beyusco. Traditionally made with raw goat or cow milk, nowadays most of what is produced is made with pasteurized milk. The cheese is produced in Asturias (one of the few areas of Spain where cows can thrive) and has a mild aroma and a compact, somewhat chalky texture. Most of Los Beyos are made with cows milk but some goat and mixed milk versions are also available.

The unique quality of Los Beyos can be mostly ascribed to that chalky texture and initial “attack” on the palate. Not at all what most people would think to ask for in a cheese, but the “finish” is well worth the experience. The cheese has a way of dissolving like melted butter over the tongue. The flavor is of a special butter of distinction, a little “sharp” but with a smoothgraceful finish. When younger the cheeses are of course a little less chalky, and those are nice too, especially if it is made with goats milk. Los Beyos pairs well with marmalades, jams, dried fruits, as well as with a broad variety of wines and ciders; even with that difficult to match Martini. Be cautious, the rind, though perfectly edible, is not nearly as delicious as the paste of the cheese.

Another distinctive Asturian cheese is the queso de La Peral. This is a relatively “new” cheese that is made with cows milk to which a little sheep cream is added. This cheese was created by Antonio León a little over a hundred years ago and has been produced in this northern coastal family-run dairy ever since.

Sometimes referred to as a “semi-blue” because La Peral reaches its peak before becoming fully veined, the cheese is not at all lacking in flavor without the excess of blue. The mixing of milks has been practiced in the making of several other great blue cheeses of northern Spain for a long time yet La Peral is particularly distinctive. A quality appreciated in La Peral is that one can taste the cow milk blended with the sheep cream, with the gentle blue offering just a bit of zest. The cheese has a bit of pungency too, as though it were a wash-rind cheese. The aroma is strong but not at all aggressive and the flavor is gently acidic and buttery. The texture of La Peral is semi-soft and moist.

The queso La Peral can be added to sauces to add potency and is delicious on toast. The cheese marries well with dried fruits and ciders, as well as with many sweeter and fruitier wines.

Entertaining is easy with these and many other Spanish cheeses. They’re delicious on their own and the varieties available offer a range of flavors and textures that is difficult to top in elaborate and time-consuming recipes. All you need to add are a few accompaniments and a couple of your favorite beverages. Leave the cooking for another occasion; spend the time with your family and friends.

Max McCalman is the author of The Cheese Plate and Cheese, a Connoisseur’s Guide to the World’s Best (Clarkson Potter, publisher). Max is the Maître Fromager for the Artisanal Group: Picholine Restaurant, Artisanal Brasserie & Fromagerie, and www.artisanalcheese.com. He is also Dean of Curriculum at the Artisanal Cheese Center.

Distributors of Cheeses from Spain
Featured in this Article

• Amertrade:
francis@amertradeinc.com
• Artisanal:
www.artisanalcheese.com
• Atalanta Corp.:
www.atalantacorporation.com
• Domestic Cheese Co.:
www.domesticcheese.com
• Despaña Brand Foods:
www.despanabrandfoods.com
• Epicure Foods Corp.:
www.epicurefoodscorp.com
• European Imports Ltd.:
www.eiltd.com
• Forever Cheese:
www.forevercheese.com
• La Española Meats Inc.:
www.laespanolameats.com
• Miguel & Valentino:
www.miguelvalentino.com
• Ole Ole Foods Inc.:
www.oleolefoods.com
• Solex Partners:
www.solexpartners.com
• The Cheese Works:
www.thecheeseworks.com