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Olive Groves and D.O.s

Perfection is not a word we bandy about often in real life, but it is the sole standard for identifying any extra virgin olive oil. By definition, extra virgin olive oil must be perfect in every dimension – organoleptically (by flavor, without any taste defects), by chemical composition, by acidity, and by purity. It must be the pure, unadulterated juice of an olive, extracted without additional heat and without any chemical interference. If an olive oil does not meet all of these strict standards, it cannot, by law, carry the designation of extra virgin.

Yet within these parameters of perfection, there are enormous and pleasing variations of flavor, thanks to the wide range of olive varieties grown within Spain’s very different regions, and thanks also to varying harvest practices (early harvest yields olive oils with pungent flavor, while ripe olives produce oils with a more mellow taste and mouth feel). In addition, blending several varieties of olives can create a new flavor profile. The choice of varieties for blended olive oils can be deliberately designed to offer a specific flavor experience, or they may be a traditional combination of olive varieties that have always been grown, harvested and pressed together. Sometimes such blends enhance the shelf life of an olive oil, because some varieties are more shelf stable than others. Alternatively, a single variety (or single cru) olive oil showcases the particular character of a single kind of olive.

As a result, because every region raises its own varieties of olives, and each kind of olive comes with its own innate flavor, every Spanish extra virgin olive oil reflects a particular region and its cultural practices. But even if all of these elements are perfect, and the resulting oil wins extra virgin status, it is not necessarily a great or even good olive oil.

There are a number of conditions that can lead to the creation of outstanding olive oil: If the weather has cooperated and the olives are sensitively raised and rapidly harvested without bruising; if the oil has been cleanly extracted, and if the oil has been carefully bottled and maintained, a good extra virgin olive oil will be the likely product. It will be a great olive oil if it has further distinguishing organoleptic qualities such as terroir – reflecting the region, growing conditions, altitude and soil of the place it came from, along with all-important flavor attributes such as fragrance, lingering aftertaste, clear flavor notes, good mouth feel, appealing bitterness and/or a finishing pepper. As Ari Weinzweig, founder of Ann Arbor’s Zingerman’s says: “We look for full flavor, with complexity, balance and finish, as well as for products that are traditionally produced.”

How can someone recognize a good olive oil? Steven Jenkins of New York’s Fairway Market says: “Taste a great olive oil against an ordinary one, and experience the difference for yourself.” At Fairway, he has set up a “passive permanent” tasting table, stocked with up to nine extraordinary olive oils. A basket of bread and olive oil bowls for dipping comprise the whole set-up, giving consumers a chance to taste for themselves. Storegenerated signage linked to the olive oil bottle labels describe the oils, giving consumers an opportunity to look for and taste special flavor notes (such as green apple or hazelnut) that are inherent in particular olive oils. In Spain, official tasters (catadores) go through a much more elaborate taste process to grade olive oils. Oil is poured into blue glasses (to eliminate color as a factor), and is gently heated between the palms of both hands (to trap the volatile aromas). The palm that covers the bowl of the glass is lifted slightly to allow the catodor to deeply breathe in the aromas, and then he pours the oil into his mouth.

He draws in air from both sides of his mouth to mix it with the oil, and then swirls it thoroughly around his palate before swallowing. Only then can he experience the full organoleptic qualities of an oil and make a judgment about its quality and elaborate its flavor attributes.

Experienced catadores are impressive to watch – they can tell immediately what varieties of olives are in the oil, where they were raised (often even to determine the altitude and geographical aspect), and when they were harvested.

In addition to tasting, both Weinzweig and Jenkins advise olive oil buyers to look for informative labels that offer as much transparency as possible, offering (at a minimum) essential information about olive varieties and regionality. Further information about the grower, cultural and harvesting practices, and harvest date increase a consumer’s chance of choosing a good oil. Most of all, both advise consumers to find and trust retailers that are deeply knowledgeable and passionate about olive oil, offer a range of very good and great olive oils, and who are devoted to educating their customers.

Enyoying an Olive Oil Tasting at Home or in a Restaurant

You can set up a tasting at home or in a restaurant with bread and dipping bowls, or by following a version of the catadore’s process. Both offer different advantages – tasting olive oil with bread offers a more accurate assessment of how it will taste in combination with food, while tasting olive oil alone provides a purer expression of its flavor. As Zingerman’s Ari Weinzweig says: “I like to taste both ways -- oils can be great on their own, or great with food.”

To taste oil alone, offer each sample, one at a time, using a small glass or cup (a shot glass), pouring in about a tablespoon or two. Show each guest how to cup the glass between two palms, so that the lower palm heats the oil to body temperature, and the top palm covers the glass to hold in the aromas. Put your nose close to your upper hand, and cup it open slightly so that you can take a good sniff. Now put the oil in your mouth, place the tip of your tongue on your upper palate, and suck in air from both sides of your lips to aerate it. Close your mouth and swirl the oil all around slowly before swallowing. Before tasting the next oil, offer guests a chance to clear their palate with water, slices of green apple, or plain bread. To taste oil with bread, dice a baguette, and offer it along with a selection of oils, each in their own shallow bowl. Cleanse palates, as above, with water, apple or plain bread.

In each case, once you have tasted an oil, take notes – is the oil mellow or pungent? Can you distinguish any flavor notes? What are they? Is it deeply fragrant?How would you describe the mouth feel? Is the finish pleasingly bitter? Peppery? Next, look at the label – what region of Spain is the oil from? What are the varieties of olives used? When was it harvested? (Note: Always look for the most recent harvest when buying olive oil.)

Deborah Krasner CCP is the author of the 2003 James Beard Award-winning book, The Flavors of Olive Oil. She conducts culinary vacations in Vermont and Umbria, Italy, teaching olive oil cuisine. www.culinaryvermont.com and www. cookumbria.com. Her most recent book is The New Outdoor Kitchen.