Foods From Spain News Summer 2007 / Absorbing Rice

When I moved to Barcelona a dozen years ago and began eating my (then future) mother-in- law’s weekend paella, I learned the importance of rice as a key staple on tables along the Spanish Mediterranean but also its role at the center of many family gatherings. Once my wife and I had two girls, rice’s status – and frequency – increased significantly on our own table.

Rice dishes are an easy reflection of the seasons – with wild mushrooms in autumn or with asparagus, green beans, tender garlic shoots, and snails in spring – but also moods and occasions. When one of us isn’t feeling so well we prepare arroz caldoso (soupy rice) with vegetables (and maybe a few clams), when we want to celebrate something special, there is nothing better than a caldoso with lobster. When a festive crowd is coming for lunch, a paella with rabbit and artichokes. Recently for my in-law’s forty-fifth wedding anniversary I prepared a caldoso of duck and wild mushrooms for thirty. What better way to feed so many on the makeshift stove of the weekend country house where we had gathered, or to best enjoy the fruits of the season?

In such Spanish dishes – from “dry” paellas to caldosos where you need a spoon – the grains of rice are simply conductors, swelling and absorbing the flavors of the pan and delivering them with intensity.

Rice was introduced into Spain in the eighth century by the Moors. They planted it around the swampy edges of the large freshwater Albufera lagoon on Valencia’s south side at beginning their long reign on the Iberian Peninsula. (The Arabic word for rice – ar-ruzz – is the root of the Spanish arroz and Catalan arròs.) Rice production eventually spread around Valencia and then Spain – today rice is also produced in many of the country’s regions – but the Albufera (Valencia) wetlands have continued to produce the finest and most soughtafter Spanish rices.

The three most important Spanish rice growing regions have Protected Designation of Origin (P.D.O.) status. This means the origin of the rice and its varietal purity are controlled by a regulatory board, as are aspects of production and harvesting.

The most famous P.D.O. rice is Arroz de Valencia. Of its 50,000 certified P.D.O. acres, nearly all are around the Albufera Nature Park and include only three varieties of rice: medium-grain Senia and Bahía, and, to a much lesser extent, short-grain Bomba.

Spanish short- and medium-grain rice are stout, opaque, and have a high concentration of starch in the middle of the grain that gives it its brilliant white color, allows for a high amount of absorption, and lends a creaminess to the rice after cooking. Short-grain Bomba is almost round, with a slight tail at one end, and expands two or three times when cooked. Yet – and this is what makes it such a great rice, especially for those who don’t cook, say, paellas, every week – it is less likely than other varieties to split open and lose its flavor and texture.

Arroz del Delta del Ebro from Tarragona in southern Catalunya is another P.D.O. The canal-riddled mouth of the Ebro River forms a fertile delta that fans out 125 square miles into the Mediterranean. It was Benedictine monks in seventeenth century who first planted rice here, sources say. Today there are about 50,000 P.D.O. certified acres of land planted with four mediumgrain varieties, principally Bahía, but also Senia, Sequial, and Tebre.

The third and smallest rice P.D.O.is Arroz de Calasparra, another historic rice growing area that can date its first plantings back to the fifteenth century. Of the 3,000 P.D.O. acres of land along the Segura River and its main tributary, the Mundo River, in the provinces of Murcia and Albacete, only half are planted each year. (The land is rotated with other crops.) Nearly all of the P.D.O. Calasparra rice is produced by a cooperative. Packaged in distinctive white cloth bags with bold red lettering, the 160-member Cooperativa del Campo “Virgen de la Esperanza” grows mediumgrain rice as well as short-grain Bomba. What makes Calasparra rice stand out is that it is grown in cold, moving mountain river water in low humidity areas at elevations between 1,150 and 1,650 feet above sea level (as opposed to the still water, sea-level fields in Valencia and the Delta del Ebro). This slows the ripening
process, and forms a harder grain that needs more liquid and more cooking time. That means the rice is able to suck up more flavors while continuing to hold its shape. For some cooks, Calasparra Bomba is simply the best rice.

Rice cooking might be the province of mama’s traditional cooking along the Spanish Mediterranean, but it’s also at the forefront of creative, contemporary cuisine. In Valencia, the young, prize winning chefs Raúl Aleixandre at Ca’ Sento and Josep Quintana at Torrijos are among the best at sublimely reinventing traditional dishes and sublimely mixing familiar Mediterranean flavors. Both include rice dishes in their dazzling tasting menus. Torrijo’s caldoso with partridge, foie gras, and the smoke of burnt acorn twigs is perhaps the best rice I have ever tasted.

Pushing the culinary possibilities of rice even further is Quique Dacosta, down the coast at El Poblet in Dénia. His culinary alchemistry and free-flowing originality in the kitchen garnered a second Michelin star in 2006. In his recent, gorgeous book Arroces Contemporáneos (Contemporary Rices), Dacosta explored the science of rice and deconstructed its cookery with tantalizing results.

But in our house, when the weather cools, my girls start asking for altogether more straightforward rice cookery – arroz con leche (rice pudding). These are the days when we are in less of a rush to leave home and instead linger as the flat fills with the aroma of rice simmering in milk with sugar, cinnamon, and citrus peels. To me that smell announces autumn.

recipes from jeff koehler
Arroz con leche (Rice Pudding) Serves 4 2/3 cup short- or medium-grain rice 4 cups whole milk 1 stick cinnamon Zest of 1/2 orange, in large pieces Zest of 1/2 lemon, in large pieces 2/3 cup sugar Ground cinnamon for dusting	There are few smells more inviting than that of rice simmering in milk with sugar, cinnamon, and citrus peels. We like to make arroz con leche on fall or winter weekend mornings, when the doors and windows of our Barcelona flat are closed, and there is little impetus to rush out, perhaps only for the newspaper and mid-morning pastry. The recipe we like is traditional and contains just a few ingredients, including both lemon and orange zest. (Many, including my mother-in-law, use only lemon zest, but I prefer the slightly sweeter tang that orange brings.) It’s a creamy dessert, sweet, with slightly chewy rice and hints of Spain’s Moorish legacy. Put the rice in a 2-quart saucepan and barely cover with cold water. Bring to a brisk boil over high heat, and then immediately remove from the heat. Drain the rice in a colander, but do not rinse. Set aside. In the same saucepan, over mediumhigh heat, bring the milk to boil with the cinnamon and citrus zest. Once bubbles break the surface, return the rice to the pan and then add the sugar, stirring to break up any clumps of rice and dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat and simmer, partly covered, for about 40 minutes, or until most of the milk is absorbed and the rice is still chewy. Stir occasionally to prevent the rice from burning or clumping, and to prevent a thick skin from forming on the surface. Have 4 flan or dessert cups ready. Discard the cinnamon stick and citrus peels. Divide the pudding among the bowls with a ladle. Let cool and then refrigerate for at least 1 hour. If desired, dust the surface of each with ground cinnamon immediately before serving.
Arroz Caldoso de Bogavante (“Soupy” Rice with Lobster) Serves 4 2 small ñora peppers or 1 ancho chile Two 1-pound live lobsters Salt and freshly ground pepper 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, 1/2 roughly chopped, and 1/2 finely chopped 1 carrot, cut crosswise into 10 or so pieces 2 pounds heads and bones of monkfish or another white fish 1 celery rib, cut crosswise into thirds 8 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves stripped and stems and leaves reserved separately 8 peppercorns 7 cups water 2 garlic cloves, peeled 1 squid (about 2 ounces), cleaned and cut into 1/2-inch dice 1/4 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch dice 2 ripe medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped 6 whole almonds, toasted 1 teaspoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1/2 teaspoon sweet pimentón 2 pinches saffron threads (about 20), lightly toasted 1 1/2 cups short- or medium-grain rice	The bogavante we cook in Spain is a European lobster, a close cousin to its American counterpart. I like to use 2 lobsters that weigh about 1 pound each, though a single, larger one can be used. A picada changes the flavor, color, and even the texture of the rice. Here, along with the traditional garlic, almonds, and parsley, the picada has ñora peppers. These small, round, dried sweet red peppers bring an added a robustness of flavor and are worth seeking out.* (If you cannot find them, an ancho chile can be substituted.) They need to be soaked in water and softened, and then lightly fried in oil before they are pounded into the picada. If you are pounding them in a mortar, chop finely with a knife first to ease the task. Soak the ñoras in a bowl of warm water for 1 hour. Drain, remove and discard the stem and seeds. Chop the meat and set aside. With a very sharp knife, split the lobsters in half lengthwise, cutting along the belly and catching any juice that falls. Season generously with salt and pepper. In a stockpot, medium Dutch oven or another heavy pot, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium heat. Add the lobsters and cook for 2 minutes, meat side down, then for another 2 minutes shell side down. Transfer to a platter. In the same pot, add the roughly chopped onions and the carrots and cook, stirring frequently, until they begin to brown and release their juices, about 5 minutes. Add the fish head and bones, celery, parsley stems, peppercorns, and 2 pinches of salt, and cover with the water. Cut away the lobster appendages and the head. Transfer the body and large claws to the platter and add the rest to the stock. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and cook, partly covered, for 30 minutes. Strain the stock, discarding the solids. While the stock is simmering, begin making the sofrito. In a caldero, tall cazuela, medium Dutch oven, or another heavy medium pot, heat 2 tablespoons of oil over medium-low heat. Cook the pieces of ñora peppers and the garlic until the garlic is brown, about 5 minutes, watching the garlic carefully so that it does not burn. Transfer to a platter. Add the remaining onions and slowly cook until soft and translucent, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the squid and green peppers, and cook for another 5 minutes. Add the tomato and 2 pinches of salt, and cook, stirring from time to time, until the tomato has darkened to a deeper shade of red and the sofrito is pasty, 10 to 15 minutes. Next, prepare the picada by pounding in a mortar the ñoras, garlic, almonds, and parsley with 2 tablespoons of stock until you have a fine paste. Or whir them in a food processor or blender. Cut the lobster bodies into half-moon-shaped pieces, keeping the meat attached to the shell if possible. Pick out any tiny shards of shell and discard. Gently crack the large claws so they remain intact but the meat is very accessible. When the sofrito is ready, sprinkle in the pimentón and saffron, letting the flavors meld for a few seconds while stirring constantly. Add 6 1/2 cups of the stock and spoon in the picada. Increase the heat and when the liquid is at a boil, add the rice and the pieces of lobster along with any juices from the platter. Cook, uncovered, over medium-high heat for 10 minutes, gently stirring occasionally. Check for salt, adjusting the seasoning as needed. Reduce the heat to low and cook for an additional 8 minutes, or until the rice is al punto, with just a bite to it. Remove the caldoso rice from the heat, cover with a lid, and bring to the table. Lift the lid, allowing all to smell the aromas floating out of the pot, and ladle into bowls immediately.
	Jeff Koehler’s book, La Paella: Deliciously Authentic Rice Dishes from Spain’s Mediterranean Coast, was published in 2006. He lives in Barcelona.

recipes from jeff koehler

Arroz con leche (Rice Pudding)
Serves 4

2/3 cup short- or medium-grain rice
4 cups whole milk
1 stick cinnamon
Zest of 1/2 orange, in large pieces
Zest of 1/2 lemon, in large pieces
2/3 cup sugar
Ground cinnamon for dusting

There are few smells more inviting than that of rice simmering in milk with sugar, cinnamon, and citrus peels. We like to make arroz con leche on fall or winter weekend mornings, when the doors and windows of our Barcelona flat are closed, and there is little impetus to rush out, perhaps only for the newspaper and mid-morning pastry. The recipe we like is traditional and contains just a few ingredients, including both lemon and orange zest. (Many, including my mother-in-law, use only lemon zest, but I prefer the slightly sweeter tang that orange brings.) It’s a creamy dessert,
sweet, with slightly chewy rice and hints of Spain’s Moorish legacy.

Put the rice in a 2-quart saucepan and barely cover with cold water. Bring to a brisk boil over high heat, and then immediately remove from the heat. Drain the rice in a colander, but do not rinse. Set aside.

In the same saucepan, over mediumhigh heat, bring the milk to boil with the cinnamon and citrus zest. Once bubbles break the surface, return the rice to the pan and then add the sugar, stirring to break up any clumps of rice and dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat and simmer, partly covered, for about 40 minutes, or until most of the milk is absorbed and the rice is still chewy. Stir occasionally to prevent the rice from burning or clumping, and to prevent a thick skin from forming on the surface. Have 4 flan or dessert cups ready.

Discard the cinnamon stick and citrus peels. Divide the pudding among the bowls with a ladle. Let cool and then refrigerate for at least 1 hour. If desired, dust the surface of each with ground cinnamon immediately before serving.

Arroz Caldoso de Bogavante
(“Soupy” Rice with Lobster)
Serves 4

2 small ñora peppers or 1 ancho chile
Two 1-pound live lobsters
Salt and freshly ground pepper
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, 1/2 roughly chopped, and 1/2 finely chopped
1 carrot, cut crosswise into 10 or so pieces
2 pounds heads and bones of monkfish or another white fish
1 celery rib, cut crosswise into thirds
8 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves stripped and stems and
leaves reserved separately
8 peppercorns
7 cups water
2 garlic cloves, peeled
1 squid (about 2 ounces), cleaned and cut into 1/2-inch dice
1/4 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 ripe medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped
6 whole almonds, toasted
1 teaspoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/2 teaspoon sweet pimentón
2 pinches saffron threads (about 20), lightly toasted
1 1/2 cups short- or medium-grain rice

The bogavante we cook in Spain is a European lobster, a close cousin to its American counterpart. I like to use 2 lobsters that weigh about 1 pound each, though a single, larger one can be used.

A picada changes the flavor, color, and even the texture of the rice. Here, along with the traditional garlic, almonds, and parsley, the picada has ñora peppers. These small, round, dried sweet red peppers bring an added a robustness of flavor and are worth seeking out.* (If you cannot find them, an ancho chile can be substituted.) They need to be soaked in water and softened, and then lightly fried in oil before they are pounded into the picada. If you are pounding them in a mortar, chop finely with a knife first to ease the task.

Soak the ñoras in a bowl of warm water for 1 hour. Drain, remove and discard the stem and seeds. Chop the meat and set aside.

With a very sharp knife, split the lobsters in half lengthwise, cutting along the belly and catching any juice that falls. Season generously with salt and pepper. In a stockpot, medium Dutch oven or another heavy pot, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium heat. Add the lobsters and cook for 2 minutes, meat side down, then for another 2 minutes shell side down. Transfer to a platter.

In the same pot, add the roughly chopped onions and the carrots and cook, stirring frequently, until they begin to brown and release their juices, about 5 minutes. Add the fish head and bones, celery, parsley stems, peppercorns, and 2 pinches of salt, and cover with the water. Cut away the lobster appendages and the head. Transfer the body and large claws to the platter and add the rest to the stock. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and cook, partly covered, for 30 minutes. Strain the stock, discarding the solids.

While the stock is simmering, begin making the sofrito. In a caldero, tall cazuela, medium Dutch oven, or another heavy medium pot, heat 2 tablespoons of oil over medium-low heat. Cook the pieces of ñora peppers and the garlic until the garlic is brown, about 5 minutes, watching the garlic carefully so that it does not burn. Transfer to a platter. Add the remaining onions and slowly cook until soft and translucent, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the squid and green peppers, and cook for another 5 minutes. Add
the tomato and 2 pinches of salt, and cook, stirring from time to time, until the tomato has darkened to a deeper shade of red and the sofrito is pasty, 10 to 15 minutes.

Next, prepare the picada by pounding in a mortar the ñoras, garlic, almonds, and parsley with 2 tablespoons of stock until you have a fine paste. Or whir them in a food processor or blender.

Cut the lobster bodies into half-moon-shaped pieces, keeping the meat attached to the shell if possible. Pick out any tiny shards of shell and discard. Gently crack the large claws so they remain intact but the meat is very accessible.

When the sofrito is ready, sprinkle in the pimentón and saffron, letting the flavors meld for a few seconds while stirring constantly. Add 6 1/2 cups of the stock and spoon in the picada. Increase the heat and when the liquid is at a boil, add the rice and the pieces of lobster along with any juices from the platter. Cook, uncovered, over medium-high heat for 10 minutes, gently stirring occasionally. Check for salt, adjusting the seasoning as needed. Reduce the heat to low and cook for an additional 8 minutes, or until the rice is al punto, with just a bite to it. Remove the caldoso rice from the heat, cover with a lid, and bring to the table. Lift the lid, allowing all to smell the aromas floating out of the pot, and ladle into bowls immediately.

Jeff Koehler’s book, La Paella:

Deliciously Authentic Rice Dishes from Spain’s Mediterranean Coast, was published in 2006. He lives in Barcelona.

summer 2007